100. The heat (and humidity, depending on the city/region)
a) At 111°
and bone dry humidity, you’re still going to sweat!
b) Blinding
sun all day long
c) Southern
India (Mumbai) is beastly hot due to humidity. You get the sense everything is fermenting
99. The traffic
a) The car
horn cacophony. They don’t use turn signals, they use their car horn to warn
other drivers they are passing, and they pass a lot! You listen to car horns
all day long.
b) No such
things as “lanes”. All gaps are
instantly filled – if a car can’t fit, a motor scooter will.
c) Drivers
park wherever/whenever, generally at the left side of the road. But it can be a
main boulevard. Other cars/scooters just drive around it.
d) Scooters
(motorbikes) and rickshaws are swarming everywhere
98. The toilets
a) The
squat toilets
b) The
western toilets on the trains (where the water in the bowl splashes everywhere as the train jerks and sways)
c) Toilets
that flush for 2 minutes and still leave floaters
97. The crowds everywhere in the cities
96. The elephant ride
a) Perched
on top of the elephant as it inches closer to a sharp drop-off
b) When the
elephant poops
c) When the
elephant in front/next to you poops
d) When the
elephant sprays
95. The animals
a) The wild
dogs
b) The
cows- wherever they want to be
c) The
monkeys- too smart for their own good
d) The
birds- when they fly into and around your restaurant
94. The excrement on the streets
a) From
cows
b) From
dogs
c) From
elephants
d) From
humans
93. The noise
a) From car
horns constantly
b) From cell
phones on full volume on the train, in restaurants, mid-flight, etc.
c) From Indian
men bickering in Hindi over small negotiations
d) From Indian
weddings at night showcasing fireworks and loud Bollywood music
92. The call to prayer
a) At 5 am
when you’re trying to sleep
b) At 9 am,
which is okay
c) At 1:30 pm
when you’re trying to nap
d) At 7pm, to
remind some of us that it’s dinner time
e) At 9pm
when you’re trying to get to sleep
91. The flight to get here. ‘Nuff said!
…Must we go on?
In all fairness, Nana isn’t alone. Laura would hate the
bright sun and smothering heat. Bob would be frustrated in Indian food choices
because cucumber is ubiquitous. Almost everyone would find the
traffic/driving/crossing the street shocking and scary.
That said, there is something intoxicating about India.
We’ve moved around here from city to city, so it’s much like someone visiting
the US and going to NYC, DC, Houston, and LA- very different cities in terms of
people, weather, traffic, customs, etc. There’s a complete blend of poor and
rich here, meaning you don’t have “rich” neighborhoods that buffer you from the
plight and the reality of the poor. As soon as you walk out the door, it’s a
sea of humanity of all economic and social classes and religions blended
together. A friend of mine who’s been here before commented that it’s a
once-in-a-lifetime experience, probably because you’ll only want or need to do
it once.
There are many similarities between American and Indian
life, but the differences are striking and overwhelming in many ways. When you
see entire families of five riding a motor scooter, with a 2 yr old squeezed in
front of the driver, and you watch how much finesse and balance and pure guts
you need to drive one of these in this traffic, you realize the divide is
stark. Everything about daily life here takes you close to the edge…in
patience, in safety, and in comfort. It’s invigorating but exhausting.
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